Pool Repair in St. George, UT
Pump dead, filter pinned, heater throwing codes, water disappearing? I diagnose it with real readings, quote repair and replace side by side, and do the work myself.
Call or text
Same person on the phone and at the pad
(435) 703-5170Texting a photo of your equipment pad or the error on the heater display is the fastest way to get an answer. If I'm elbow-deep in a pump, I'll reply between jobs.
The repair guy, not the cleaning route that subs it out
A lot of pool companies in St. George are built around weekly cleaning. Repairs get handed to whoever is available, and you end up explaining the problem three times. I built RJ's Pool Service the other way around. Repair is the work I want, and I do it myself.
That matters on a pad that's been sitting in 105° sun for fifteen summers. Capacitors dry out, control boards cook, and calcium from our water scales up everything it touches. Most of what fails here fails for a predictable reason, and I've seen it enough times to find it fast.
- Pumps and motors — capacitors, bearings, shaft seals, impellers, variable-speed drives, full replacements. Pump & filter repair →
- Filters — cartridge, DE and sand. Grid and cartridge replacement, multiport valves, tank cracks, pressure problems.
- Heaters — gas heaters and heat pumps: ignition, flow and pressure switches, thermal regulators, scaled exchangers. Heater repair →
- Salt systems — cell cleaning and replacement, flow sensors, control board faults.
- Plumbing and valves — leaking unions, cracked PVC, stuck or broken valves, actuator replacement, check valves.
- Automation and lights — relays, timers, panel troubleshooting, LED and incandescent pool light replacement.
- Leaks — equipment-side leaks fixed on the spot; shell and underground leaks located and explained.
Symptom → likely cause
What I usually find
Process
How I diagnose it
- Listen and look first
Half of pad problems show themselves in thirty seconds: a bearing scream, a wet pad under the pump, a gauge pinned high, a cell caked white. - Readings, not guesses
Amps and voltage on the motor against the nameplate. Filter PSI clean versus dirty. Flow at the heater. A proper water test, including calcium hardness. - Isolate the problem
Close valves, bypass the heater, plug the skimmer: one change at a time until the symptom moves. That's how you tell a suction leak from a bad impeller. - Quote repair and replace
You get both options with real numbers and my honest recommendation. Then you decide. - Fix it and check the rest of the pad
I check every union, o-ring and valve while I'm there, because a second call-out next month helps nobody.
Local
Why it's different here
Washington County tap water is extremely hard, often above 250 ppm calcium before it ever hits the pool. Add a summer of evaporation and the calcium concentrates. That's why salt cells here scale in months, heater exchangers clog, and cartridge filters stop breathing long before they look dirty.
Equipment pads sit in full sun on the south or west side of the house. Pad temperatures over 120° cook capacitors and control boards. If your pump or heater is more than about eight years old and has never had a capacitor or board problem, it's living on borrowed time.
Spring wind and summer monsoon storms dump red dust into every skimmer in the valley. A pump that runs dry because a basket packed solid overnight is one of the most common ways a shaft seal fails here.
FAQ
Questions I get on the first call
What pool repairs do you do?
Everything on the equipment pad and the plumbing that feeds it: pumps and motors, cartridge, DE and sand filters, gas heaters and heat pumps, salt chlorine generators, valves and actuators, automation panels, pool lights, pressure-side and suction leaks, and skimmer and return repairs. I don't do new pool construction or replastering.
Do I need to be home?
Not for the diagnosis if I can get to the pad. I'll text you what I find and the quote, and you decide. For anything that needs power shut off inside or a conversation about options, I'd rather you be there.
Is it worth repairing a pump that's over ten years old?
Often, yes. A capacitor, shaft seal or bearing job on a solid single-speed pump is a fraction of a replacement. Where I'll steer you toward replacement is a motor with burnt windings, a cracked housing, or a pump that's costing you real money every month at full speed. I'll show you the numbers either way.
What brands do you work on?
The ones on most pads in Washington County: Pentair, Hayward and Jandy for pumps, filters, heaters and automation, plus the Raypak heaters and the usual salt cells. If you've got something unusual, text me a photo and I'll tell you up front whether I can get parts for it.
Can you fix a leak, or just find it?
Both, when it's on the equipment side: pump seals, cracked housings, unions, valves, skimmer throats and return fittings. For a leak in the shell or a buried pipe that needs excavation, I'll find it, tell you what it is, and be straight about what it takes to fix.
What does a repair visit cost?
Ask me on the phone and I'll give you a straight answer. I'd rather tell you a number before I come out than surprise you at the pad. If the repair is something I can diagnose from a photo, I'll tell you that too.
Get in touch
Something wrong at the pad?
Call or text first if it's urgent. Otherwise send me the details and a photo and I'll get back to you to set a time.